Debbie Olson creates this adorable "Have a Cool Day" polar bear reusable muslin gift bag! Read along as Debbie shares some ideas that worked as well as a few pitfalls to avoid when combining Terial Magic with stamping and coloring.
Spray bag with Terial Magic Fabric Stabilizer. Squeeze and fold to let the stabilizer saturate the cloth, then spread the bag out smoothly to dry. Let the bag air dry for about 15 minutes and then iron it dry and smooth. It should be completely dry before you stamp on it.
Using a fabric-compatible pigment ink, stamp the focal image on the muslin bag. A stamp positioner tool can be helpful in case you need to stamp the image twice to get the lines dark enough. (The magnet holds the bag in place, while the stamp on the hinged clear panel can be re-inked for subsequent applications.)
Using an iron on a medium-high setting, heat-set the stamped image.
If you need to stamp additional parts or a sentiment, mask the first image and stamp any overlapping image parts. Heat set them as well. (Since the ice shelf needed to look as if the polar bear were standing on it, the bear was stamped first, then masked so that the ice shelf line would not run through his legs.)
Begin coloring the image with Copic markers. While the Terial Magic Stabilizer helps quite a bit with the natural wicking property of cloth, cloth is still very porous. Use a scrap piece of cardstock inside the bag to prevent bleed-through. It is important to apply ink sparingly: a light touch and a flicking stroke will work much better that saturating the cloth with ink. Use your hot iron to quickly dry the marker ink if you happen to apply too much ink and see that the ink is going to wick past the stamped line. Here Copic R21 has been added only to the highlight areas of the scarf. Again, flicking ink on lightly is the key to staying within the lines.
Color midtones and darks in the scarf, blending as little as possible (R24/R27/ R39). Over-blending will result in ink outside the lines. Flick/feather ink lightly, using the iron to quickly dry the ink when you see it starting to wick.
Color the ice shelf (G000/G02). Don’t worry about filling in all of the cloth with ink; if you flick the color lightly onto the cloth, you can leave parts of the cloth colorless to act as your white space.
Color the sky (B000). Coloring the sky helps to make the polar bear appear to be lighter than he really is. Lightly flick the ink from the edge of the bear outward toward the edge of the bag. If you end up with a hard edge, you can always flick 0 (Colorless Blender) from the outer edge of the bag inward toward the sky color.
Next, color the bear (C2, C4). Again, because he is a white bear, most of the bear is simply the white of the paper--or in this case, the cream of the muslin. All you need to add are the shadows on the bear’s form. You could add a hint of pink on his cheeks if you wish (R21, 0). Remember that if you add too much ink and it starts wicking outside the lines, you can always iron the bag to dry the ink instantly and prevent it from spreading. After you have colored the bear, add some cast shadows (BV00, BV01). Cast shadows are places that direct light is blocked by an object or a part of an object.
Add water around the ice shelf (B41). Just as with the sky, you can soften outer edges of the Copic B41 with a Colorless Blender if you wish.
As an optional step, you may want to use a black Multiliner to darken the facial features of the bear if shading the face has lightened them.
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